Monday 28 July 2008



This is the 1968 Pipeliner i shaped . I was really intralled by the Brewer 67-69 boards he shaped for Gerry Lopez. And how perfect they were for Pipe & hollow surf. I ran into a mate of jeff Hakman's and he sold me a 6'10" Paramenter - Aleutian Juice, widow maker. He said it was an amazing magical board, but that it was cursed. The first good day i rode it Hanalei point was 6 ft hawaiian and draining off the super low tide reef. Yeah some 8ft sets, a bit scary. the board was putting me so deep - in the barrel i nearly got dropped in on countless times, cause no one looked that deep. it was unbelievable, i got so many barrels, made them ALL!!!
then the curse.... i dropped in on a real nasty one, it sucked me up the face, and the fin hit my face and went through my cheek! A nice hole all the way through! It was sunday, no local doctors around, blood everywhere, and so it got crazy glued and butterflied. i still have the huge scar today; as it severed the muscles in my cheek too, and i can't pull a real full smile.

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